![]() The Pfiel was roughly ground, and it took a couple of hours with some sandpaper, diamond files and whetstones to get it to the same degree of sharpness as their carving tools come out of the box. I'm thinking that the extra couple of hundred dollars for a bowl adze from another supplier is probably the hand-forged nature of them and additional prep work that the maker puts into them. My impression of the adze so far is quite good - the steel will stand up to a real pounding. I'm afraid my budget isn't quite that large.įor now, I went with an antique shingling hatchet (single bevel) that I picked up for $30 at an MWTCA event and a Pfeil two-handed bowl adze. I've seen a few "originals" of these forms fetch several thousand dollars at antique tool auctions. Interesting adze - and a quite ancient design. Randy - Thanks for the pics and the book authors - I'll hunt them up through the library's inter-library loan system. I hope this is helpful, but if you have any further questions, please let me know. ![]() Most instructors give you a list to buy things, whereas Drew lets you try all different tools to see what you do and don't like. ![]() He's one of the few instructors I know who specifically tells people not to buy a bunch of tools before they come to his class so they don't wind up with unwanted tools. If you really are interested, just give Drew a call and you'll find him to be very helpful and not pushy on buying his tools. If you haven't seen it yet, Drew has a tutorial of sorts on his site on carving bowls and he alse sells an excellent video by Bengt Lidström, which would be a great way to get started. Another option are the Gransfors Bruks adzes (Highland Hardware sells them), but they are also expensive and I understand sometimes in short supply. They are quite expensive, however, so you might think about one of his large gouges like HK-28. I use a lightweight elbow adze (made in the NW Coast native style), but have heard good things about the Karlsson adzes Drew sells. Note that these are for hand pressure only, not mallet work, so you will need either an adze or large gouge. If you wanted to just start with two, I would suggest 06 and 07. I personally own and use the Karlsson gouges listed as HK-06, 07, and 08 and find them to work very well. The tools that Drew sells are excellent and he stands behind them 100%. The Karlsson bent gouges look ideal, but that's just a judgement from a picture - does anyone on the forum have any of these tools, and if so, what do they think of them? They're hand-forged and quite expensive, but I'm not one to skimp on tools when I can pay a little more and get a more usable/higher quality tool. I've also looked at Country Workshop's tools. ![]() Ironically, the smaller version is more expensive than the larger one. In particular, I've looked at Pfiel's offerings for a swept and curved adze - these seem to be limited to the #9 (european) sweep, and come either with a short, hatchet-type handle or a longer, two-handed (but still not full length) version. So my question is - what do creeker woodcarver's recommend for a highly-swept adze for roughing out the inside of a bowl blank? What would be your choice for a highly swept and highly curved bowl gouge? However, I've become interested in bowl carving after reading Roy Underhill's short chapter on dough bowls in one of the Woodwright's Shop books, and except for a smallish curved hand adze and a shingling axe, I don't have the right tools for the job. That means that most of my carving tools are on the smallish side - generally no larger than 20mm. I'm a tradtional carver with traditional, european-type tools (i.e., carving gouges instead of knives), mainly focused on furniture carving jobs. Hi All - I'm looking for some tool recommendations here.
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